Clockwise from upper left -

Worn sprocket shows the bike had some miles on it. The lead seal was still in place on this so it hadn't been rebuilt yet.

This is what happens when you miss the warning in the manual and misuse that nifty new clutch tool you just built. That shiny area is the newly uncovered metal that was hidden by the kickstart boss for 40 years prior to my screw up.

Close up of damaged kickstart shaft boss. I guess they've been known to break under normal usage so it's not that rare to see this.

Rich Lambrecht's came to the rescue and welded it up for me so it wasnt' a major setback, but it did put a damper on my enthusiasm for a while. Lesson Learned: Do NOT use the kickstart shaft to brace the clutch holding tool when loosening the flywheel nut. Paying attention to the fine print and small arrows in the manual will help avoid this type of thing.

Checking freeplay in crank to determine shims. As with my 750, I found the factory shim was still correct with the new bearings and gasket.

Progress pic, checking the transmission

Ready for assembly

Lower bevel gears and oil pump drive in place

Alternator stator in place - it's been rewired

Flywheel and kickstart mechanisim in place. Note that the flywheel has a timing mark on it. This is indexed a certain number of degrees from the keyway on the crank (the manual lists the correct number). The 160 does not need a battery to run, so the alternator needs to be in the correct part of it's cycle when the coil fires. Also note the spring holding the kickstart gear in place. This is the one (two actually...) that breaks and makes it so you have to lean the bike to the right to get the kickstart to work.