Here is a list of resources and tools that will come in handy if you're undertaking a bevel project.

Web Sites/Mail List

Ducati Meccanica has a ton of information on older Ducatis, including electronic copies of manuals and other documentation. There is also a section listing parts suppliers. Since they have done a good job of listing all this stuff, I won't repeat it here. This is also the place to go if you want to sign up to the "Bevelheads" mailing list. The group includes some very knowledgeable people, and most anything you're going to try has been done by someone there already.


There are two restoration manuals out there for the twin cylinder bikes. One by Mick Walker (top left), and the other by Ian Falloon (second from left). They both give numerous details on what fits what, though neither of them is a shop manual. I don't have a particular favorite between these. Mick Walker has also written a restoration manual for the single cylinder bikes, but I'm not familiar enough with them to comment on it.

There are a couple shop manuals out there for the 750 and 860 machines. I've used both the Haynes manual "Ducati V-Twins '71 on" (top center) and a Cycleserv publication that shows up on eBay pretty regularly; " Servicing Ducati Motor Cycles 750GT/Sport 860" (second from right). That Haynes manual has more information on things other than the engine, while the Cycleserv book concentrates mainly on an engine rebuild.

The parts manuals for the roundcase bikes are still available and also very useful. The exploded views come in handy during the rebuild, and having the correct part numbers when you order parts saves a lot of time. It's also a good way to see if a previous owner has changed something around on you, though beware, no book is the final source on what is correct for your bike. There seem to be exceptions to most everything when it comes to what came on what.

There is one more book that is somewhat controversial, "Ducati Tuning V-Twins with Bevel Drive Camshafts" (top right) by Stephen Eke. I say this book is controversial because while it does contain some good information, there is some info in there that is downright wrong. It's hard figuring out which is which at times. This book is out of print, and rather expensive when you can find it, so buyer beware. The section on synching carbs is often singled out as the best part of the book. (It is also availabe in electronic form if you look hard enough.)


There a few tools that you pretty much have to have to rebuild a roundcase. This is a partial list, I'll add part numbers and sources later. For now you can go to the Desmo site to see pictures and get an idea on prices. (Select "Tools" from the dropdown menu)

Socket for countershaft nut. I made one out of some heavy stainless tubing (aka as exhaust tubing) and some time on a grinder. Once the tubing was sized to fit the nut, I ground away the "teeth" area. Then I welded a cap on the other end, and the end of an old socket on that so I'd have something to put the wrench on.

Wrench for distributor locknut. I got mine from Desmo in Germany. About $15 if I remember right?

Bearing Pullers. The only place you really need one of these is on one bearing in the right hand case that is pushed into a blind hole. What a PITA to remove. I ended up getting a nut TIG welded to the bearing, screwed a slide hammer in there, and yanked it out. This task is easier if the bearing has already been replaced before - the factory staked it in, most rebuilders don't. Some universal blind bearing pullers may work here, but nothing I had would.

Puller for bevel shaft bushings. You will absolutely need one of these, and they aren't easy to find. I had one built. In general, you need a 41.3mm OD tube with a 1.0mm thread cut into it. This screws into the bushings, and then you need a way to pull it all out. I ended up with a slide hammer arrangement. It worked, but if I were to do it again, I'd reconfigure it as a puller. replace the slide hammer shaft with a threaded rod, put a larger tube around the whole thing, then thread a nut down the rod to pull the inner assembly out.

Exhaust Nut Spanner - Phil at Road and Race in Australia has these. Keep in mind the prices on Phil's site are Australian dollars! DO NOT try to get the exhaust ring off with a hammer and punch, You WILL break the fin off. Trust me! (There are some people who will argue this point. Listen to them if you want. You might get lucky.) Some people have had success using a strap wrench on this nut, I tried with a brand new wrench and pulled the strap apart before the nut came loose. Once I had the correct tool, removal was trivial. Buy the tool, a new exhaust nut costs about as much. You can also build a tool if you have access to an old exhaust nut. Cut it in half and weld a handle on it.

Rocker Pin Puller. This isn't a must-have tool. Go buy a 4mm(?) bolt to screw into the shafts and you can figure out how to make a puller. The real tool would be handy, but dang, they seem expensive for what they do.

Rocker Pin Alignment. They sell a fancy tool for this, you could easily make something similar, or you could use whatever you have handy, which is what I did. Could have been a screw driver, or maybe a drill bit. I forget..

Wrench to torque head nuts. Helpful Hint - torque the head down while the engine is still on the bench. The nuts are kind of a pain to get to in any case, when the engine is in the frame it's that much harder. I was going to buy either a crow's foot or a specialized tool for this, but finally decided to build one myself. I found a 5/8" wrench that fit the nuts (they are 16mm) and took the end off an old 1/2" drive socket so it would connect to my torque wrench.

Piston stop. You need to know where top dead center is to time the cams and ignition. This is a simple tool that makes finding TDC pretty easy. I made one using a spark plug and a 3/8" aluminum rod.

Degree wheel. You need to find TDC to time the cam and ignition for each cylinder. I bought mine from Vee Two in Australia. Not cheap, and it's got an error in the markings, but it's handy once you have it. Phil carries these too.